Human Material Loop gives hair a second life

LIOF and Human Material Loop

Zsofia Kollar, founder of HML, explains: “In nearly all cultures, people derive their identity to a large degree from their hair, but once it is cut, it becomes worthless.” In Europe alone, we collectively throw away more than 150,000 tons of human hair. Hairdressers dispose of about 15 kg of waste hair every week, and considering that there are 28,000 registered hair salons in the Netherlands alone, that’s quite a volume. All that hair winds up in landfills or incinerators. This is unfortunate because this hair is clean, non-toxic, light, insulating, and tremendously strong. Another important aspect is that it is hypoallergenic; no humans are allergic to it.

The Environmental Cost of the Textile Industry

The textile industry accounts for 2% of global GDP, but it comes with an environmental cost. The global textile industry faces numerous systemic challenges, deeply rooted throughout its value chain—from raw material sourcing to consumer use. These challenges hinder the industry's progress toward sustainability and pose significant risks to the environment, workers, and the integrity of textile brands. Producing textiles with new, environmentally friendly materials is a good idea, but it often requires new machines or factories, necessitating an innovative solution. Human Material Loop knows exactly how to address this challenge.

Human Hair: A Surprising Solution

One solution to make the textile industry more sustainable is to use new materials that are abundantly available—in other words, human hair. This may seem like a surprising choice, but the benefits are substantial. This startup company recycles waste human hair and transforms it into a type of yarn for producing textile products. It is the first company to have developed technology to utilize this form of biomass in a modern industrial setting. To develop its first prototype, Human Material Loop (HML) received a grant from LIOF in 2023

This is Essentially Human Wool

In fact, human hair can be processed on the same machines as wool. Like wool or alpaca hair, human hair is primarily made of keratin—a protein that gives hair its strength. Keratin is the strongest protein ever created by nature, and all mammals share this protein in their bodies. What we have on our heads can be thought of as "human wool.” A major advantage of the process used by HML is that no harmful chemicals are involved whatsoever, making it much better for the environment. However, the benefits extend beyond environmental considerations; by utilizing this waste stream, no animals have to suffer. Since it is a global waste stream, the costs and emissions associated with transportation can be significantly reduced. This approach not only offers environmental advantages but can also provide an economic boost to local economies and communities.

Waste: Just Raw Material in the Wrong Place

In today’s crisis, we cannot afford to waste anything. Technology has advanced enormously. We are in the Fourth Industrial Revolution; biotechnology and advanced logistics systems allow us to transform any material into something new. We must be resourceful in how we view waste and use our technological advancements to eliminate it from our vocabulary. Material science is essentially about creating something new from something that already exists. Human Material Loop transforms hair waste into a new material. Just look at synthetic fibers—we call it polyester, not crude oil. The trade name for the fibers developed by Human Material Loop has already been filed, and a new protein fiber will soon enter the market to disrupt the industry.

Spinning Hair

HML has already proven that it is possible to produce clothes from human hair, but they have so far only done so on a small scale, using up to 7 kg of hair. “With the funding they have now obtained from the LVFF fund, they plan to take a step forward and hope to process 220 kg of hair. We believe this is feasible because they do not need new machinery, and the process is already working on a small scale,” says an enthusiastic Zsofia.
At a factory in Germany, HML will spin the first yarn made from human hair. In addition, HML is collaborating with manufacturers in this project “to test how well the materials work in practice and to see how the market reacts to them. And successfully! There is already a lot of interest from potential buyers.” To enable this further growth, LIOF granted HML a loan from the Limburg Early Phase Fund [in Dutch: Limburg Vroege Fase Fonds, LVFF]. Remon Plummen, investment manager at LIOF, states, “Zsofia’s passion and enthusiasm are contagious. These are the disruptive propositions that make this work so much fun. With our loan, we are helping HML to test production on an industrial scale and build a robust IP portfolio—and then actually sell the product.”

Interior Applications for Walls, Ceilings, and Floors

Human Material Loop focuses primarily on the interior segment. They can provide various types of materials depending on customer needs, including yarn, fabric, or fibers that can be used for acoustic panels, wall coverings, curtains, and more. Their aim is to tackle the industry step by step, starting with the interior and later expanding into the apparel segment.

Without Scale, There is No Impact

Textiles shape our comfort, productivity, and the aesthetics of our surroundings. The type of fabric used can greatly impact durability, functionality, and the overall visual appeal of both clothing and household items. Change is often scary, but innovation requires stamina and the willingness to embrace challenges. Zsofia views entrepreneurship as an adventure; the hard work is paying off and is personally fulfilling as she works on something meaningful for the next generation. “Making a positive impact gives me a great deal of satisfaction. I want to demonstrate that, as humans, we are part of the ecosystem rather than above it. Without scale, we cannot create impact; my mission is to scale Human Material Loop into a global player that provides healthier, high-performing materials without polluting the environment.”

More informatie: www.humanmaterialloop.com
Photography: Ron Wiersma, Maastricht (www.ronwiersma.nl).